Switches

Rocker Switches

KCD-series snap-in rocker switches — KCD-1, KCD-3 and KCD-4 bodies in 2 to 6 pin, SPST to DPDT, plain or illuminated, rated from 6A up to 30A at 250V AC.

A rocker switch is pressed at one end to change state and stays where you put it, which is why it has become the default power control on almost everything with a mains lead. Imperial Electronic stocks the KCD series in Lahore — the industry-standard family that nearly every appliance, panel, and power supply is built around, so a failed switch can be matched and replaced rather than worked around.

The range is organized by body size, because that is what determines both the panel cut-out and the current the switch can carry. KCD-1 is the compact body, in round and rectangular forms at 6A to 16A, suited to appliances and light control work. KCD-3 is the mid-size body at 10A to 16A, including the twin red-and-green double switch that puts two circuits in one cut-out. KCD-4 is the large body and the one to reach for when real load is involved, rated 16A as standard and up to 30A on the silver-contact and waterproof versions.

Within each size you then choose the behaviour. Pin count tells you how many poles are switched — 2-pin SPST breaks one line, 3-pin adds either a second throw or a feed for an internal lamp, 4-pin DPST breaks both supply lines together, and 6-pin DPDT changes both poles over for polarity reversal. Beyond that, illuminated versions show load status at a glance, centre-off versions add a neutral position between two live states, momentary versions spring back to off when released, and the waterproof KCD-4 seals the whole actuator under a rubber boot.

Buying Guide

Start with the current, because it eliminates most of the range immediately. Add up the actual load, not the supply rating: the KCD-1 bodies carry 6A to 16A and suit appliances and control circuits, the standard KCD-4 handles 16A at 250V AC, and only the 30A silver-contact and waterproof KCD-4 versions belong on a welding plant, a submersible pump, or a heavy motor. Undersizing here is the usual cause of a switch that welds its contacts shut. Next, count the poles you need to break. A 2-pin SPST interrupts one line and is fine for low-risk DC and light appliance work, but for mains-fed equipment a 4-pin DPST breaks live and neutral together and is the safer choice. Go to 6-pin DPDT only when you need both poles to change over — that is what reverses a DC motor. Third, decide whether it should stay put or spring back: latching for a main power switch, momentary (single or double reset) for jog control, accelerator pedals, and anything that must stop the moment the operator lets go. Then check for a centre-off if you need a genuine neutral between two live positions. Finally, measure the cut-out before ordering — KCD-1, KCD-3, and KCD-4 are different sizes and are not interchangeable once the hole is made — and if the switch will see splashing, dust, or outdoor exposure, take the booted waterproof KCD-4 rather than sealing a standard one after the fact.